Like many generations-old dishes, the origins of chiles rellenos are fuzzy. Indigenous cooks in what’s now Mexico and Central America have charred and stuffed chile peppers for centuries. According to one popular story, the dish rose to prominence in Mexico in 1821. As the legend goes, nuns in a Puebla convent served stuffed peppers beneath a white walnut sauce with pomegranate seeds to the leader of the Mexican army to celebrate newfound independence from Spain. The red, white, and green colors of the dish shared those of the new country’s flag.

Recipe information

• Total Time1½ hours
• Yield4 servings

Ingredients

Chiles:

4 large fresh poblano chiles (about 1 lb.)

Sauce:

1½ lb. tomatoes, coarsely chopped

¼ cup chopped white onion

2 large garlic cloves

1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar

1 tsp. sugar

1 tsp. dried oregano (preferably Mexican)

1¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, plus more

2 Tbsp. vegetable oil (preferably corn oil)

Frying and assembly:

½ lb. Monterey Jack cheese, coarsely grated (2½ cups)

Vegetable oil (preferably corn oil, for frying; 2–3 cups)

4 large eggs, separated

¼ tsp. kosher salt, divided, plus more

¼ cup all-purpose flour

Steamed white rice for serving

Preparation

Chiles

Step 1

Roast 4 large fresh poblano chiles (about 1 lb.) on their sides on racks of gas burners (1 or 2 per burner) over medium-high heat, turning with tongs, until skins are blistered and slightly charred, 4–6 minutes. (Or broil on rack of a broiler pan about 2″ from heat.) Immediately transfer to a large bowl and cover; let stand 20 minutes.

Sauce:

Step 2

Purée 1½ lb. tomatoes, coarsely chopped, ¼ cup chopped white onion, 2 large garlic cloves, 1 Tbsp. distilled white vinegar, 1 tsp. sugar, 1 tsp. dried oregano (preferably Mexican), 1¼ tsp. Diamond Crystal or ¾ tsp. Morton kosher salt, and 1 cup water in a blender until smooth. Strain through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl, pressing on solids; discard solids.

Step 3

Heat 2 Tbsp. vegetable oil in a deep 12″ heavy nonreactive skillet or ovenproof casserole over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Carefully pour in sauce and simmer gently, stirring occasionally, 10 minutes (sauce should still be thin). Season with kosher salt.

Do Ahead: Sauce can be made 3 days ahead. Chill, uncovered, until cool, then cover.

Frying and assembly:

Step 4

Carefully rub off skins from chiles, leaving stems attached. Cut a slit lengthwise in each chile with kitchen shears, then carefully cut out seedpod (including attached ribs) without tearing chile (hotter chiles smell stronger when cut). Wipe chiles clean with a paper towel if necessary.

Step 5

Divide ½ lb. Monterey Jack cheese, coarsely grated (2½ cups), among chiles and enclose filling by overlapping slit slightly if possible; transfer stuffed chiles to a plate. (Use a toothpick to mark any hotter chiles if desired.)

Step 6

Fill a 12″ heavy frying pan with ½” of vegetable oil and heat over medium until oil registers 360°F on thermometer.

Step 7

Meanwhile, beat 4 large egg whites with ⅛ tsp. kosher salt using an electric mixer until they just hold stiff peaks. Whisk remaining 4 large egg yolks with ⅛ tsp. kosher salt in a large bowl, then gently fold in whites.

Step 8

Put ¼ cup all-purpose flour in a fine-mesh sieve and dust chiles, turning them to lightly coat all sides.

Step 9

When oil is ready, dip chiles, one at a time (hold chile by stem), in egg mixture, spooning it over chile to cover completely, then fry, turning once, until golden brown on all sides (lap hot oil over any lighter areas), 4–5 minutes. Transfer chiles with a slotted spoon to paper towels to drain.

Step 10

Meanwhile, reheat sauce over low heat. Lay chiles in sauce to serve.

Do Ahead: Chiles can be roasted and stuffed 1 day ahead. Chill, covered in an airtight container.

Notes:

Many chiles rellenos recipes require blackening the poblanos over an open flame which you could absolutely do on your outdoor grill but you can create similarly smoky notes and peelable skins by roasting peppers on the stovetop or broiling them in the oven.

Folding beaten egg whites into whisked egg yolks makes a fluffy egg batter that coats the green chiles in ethereal crunch when fried.

Fillings and flavors are infinitely customizable.

For a meatier version, add crumbled Mexican chorizo to the cheese. Swap the Monterey Jack for Oaxaca cheese, mozzarella, queso asadero, or another mild melting cheese.

Stir minced cilantro into the tomato-based sauce.

Instead of poblano peppers, use Anaheim or New Mexico chiles or any other type of mild long pepper. (Be sure to choose straight chiles rather than curved ones; they’ll be easier to peel and fill.) Stuff them with refried beans (or refried beans and shredded cheese) and serve with tortillas, chile colorado, and queso fresco.